Granny "Square" Sweater for Bennet

This is something I've been wanting to try for quite a while now.  

The simplicity of this pattern is why I love it so much. It is simply two granny style hexagons that are folded and then joined down the back and along the top of the arms.

Add some edging and some buttons and you've got yourself a sweater. 

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The Pattern

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This pattern can be made with any size yarn and matching hook. However, I used a sport weight(3) and a 5mm hook. To get the right size sweater I suggest using an old hoodie/sweater that is the approximate size you want to end up with. Lay out your two folded hexagons on top of the sweater as you go to determine whether or not you need more rows. Keeping in mind that the edging will add a little to the bottom and the sleeves.

Abbreviations:

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

dc = double crochet

ss = slip stitch

fpdc = front post double crochet

bpdc = back post double crochet

Granny Style Hexagon (make 2)

Row 1: Start with a magic loop. In the loop ch3(counts as dc), 2dc, *ch1, 3dc* repeat from * to * 4 more times, ch1, pull the magic loop tight, join with ss to top of beginning chain. You should now have 6  3dc clusters and 6 ch1 spaces. Fasten off.

Row 2: Join a new colour into one of the ch1 spaces. In the ch1 space (ch3, 2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1), in each of the next 5 ch1 spaces (3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1).  Join with ss to top of beginning chain. You should now have 12 3dc clusters and 12 ch1 spaces. Fasten off.

Row 3: Join a new colour into one of the ch1 spaces. In the ch1 space(ch3, 2dc, ch1). In the next ch1 space(3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1) to form a corner. In the next ch1 space(3dc, ch1) to continue pattern. Alternate between forming a corner and continuing the pattern in each on the next 9 ch1 spaces. Join with ss to top of beginning chain. You should now have 18  3dc clusters (two in each corner) and 18 ch1 spaces. Fasten off. 

Row 4: Join new colour into one of the ch1 spaces along a flat edge(not a corner). In the ch1 space(ch3, 2dc, ch1). If the next space is a corner(3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1). If the next space is not a corner(3dc, ch1). Continue in this way until the last space. Join with ss to top of beginning chain. Fasten off. 

Continue Row 4(adding 6 clusters each round) until desired size. Note that the edging will add a little length to the sleeves and body.

Fold the two hexagons into an L shape. Join the two shapes along what will be the back of the sweater using a ss. Then join along the top of each sleeve in the same way. I found that it looked nicest to join only the back loop of one side and the front loop of the other. Alternatively, you could sew the pieces together with yarn and a yarn needle. Now you should have a basic sweater shape.

Bottom Edging (ribbing)

Open up the sweater so that the bottom is flat. Join yarn at one end and work edging back and forth, row by row, just like a blanket. 

Row 1: ch1, sc across entire row making sure to crochet 1sc in each ch1 space as well as each dc. Turn. 

Note: I found that adding 1sc to each side of the back seam made for the flattest look.

Row 2: ch1, 1 hdc in each sc across. Turn.

Row 3: ch1, *1 fpdc in each of next 2 hdc, 1 bpdc in each of next 2 hdc* repeat from * to * across. Turn

Row 4: ch1, continue pattern across. (if the next stitch looks like a fpdc then do a fpdc, if it looks like a bpdc then do a bpdc.) Turn. Be careful not to loose a stitch at the end of each row. 

Rows 5 & 6: Same as Row 4.

Fasten off.

Cuff Edging (ribbing)

The cuff edging is worked in the same way as the bottom edging, only that is is worked in the round. Meaning that you will join each round with a ss and continue working around in the same direction instead of turning at the end of the row. Also I suggest starting at the bottom of the sleeve so that the area where all of the rows are joined will be hidden. I chose to do one less round of edging on the sleeves than on the bottom.

Collar & Button Hole Edging

Row 1: Starting on the right side of the sweater, join yarn at the bottom of the Bottom Edging. ch1, and sc across in the same way as for the bottom edging. When you reach the outside corner of the collar 3sc in the corner stitch then continue to sc around the collar until you reach the next corner, 3sc in the corner, continue to sc until the very bottom of the bottom edging. Turn.

Row 2: ch1, sc across with a 3sc cluster at each corner. Turn.

Row 3: ch1, sc across with a 3sc cluster at each corner, stop after you've formed the second corner.

Now you can set out your buttons and choose where you want them to be. Use a contrasting colour of yarn or a small safety pin to mark the position of each button, but don't sew them on just yet. 

Now continue Row 3: Continue to sc to the end of the row leaving a ch1 space(ch1, skip next stitch) directly across from where each button will go. Turn.

Note: Depending on the size of button you choose, you may have to leave a larger space for the button holes.

Row 4&5: Same as Row 2. Fasten off. 

Using a needle and thread sew on the button, making sure to sew them onto the 3rd row of stitches and double checking along the way to make sure that the buttons are lining up with the button holes.

Granny Square Hooded Scarf

A Christmas gift for Gabrielle.

These squares came from the same blanket as the squares used for Angie's shoulder bag. 

It is quite a simple project. 

Scarf

11 x 6" squares 

Add a round of single crochet(Sc)

(3 or 5sc in each corner, whatever looks best)

to each square before joining.

Join together with slip stitch(ss).

Hood

Sc back and forth along the edge of the centre three squares for approx. 4",

 or whatever you need to make the hood fit.

Do not break yarn.

Fold the flat hood piece in half and join the two halves together with a ss.

Picot Edging

Round 1:

Join yarn in any stitch. 

Chain(ch) 1, Sc around,

Sc 3 or 5 in each outside corner, whatever looks best. 

Sc2together before and after each inside corner.(-2 stitches)

Join with ss to begining ch.

Round 2:

Ch 1, *sc2, 1 picot* repeat from *to* around,

As in round 1, sc2tog before and after each inside corner.(-2 stitches)

Join with ss to begining ch. 

1 picot = sc, ch3, ss into 1st of 3ch.

Here's a good video demonstration.

***On round 2 I did not add any stitches to the outside corners,

however if you look closely at the picture you can see that the outside corners curl a little bit.

Next time, I would +2 stitches to each, for a total of 3 stitches in each outside corner.

Busy Blanket

This is a Christmas gift for "Baby Jade" as Liam calls her.

It is simply a denim/flannel rag quilt with a plethora of random things on it that might catch a baby's attention for a minute. It's intended for that stage when they're curious about everything and wanting to explore, but they're not yet able to get around very well. The idea is that you'd plunk the baby right in the middle, and it would keep her busy for a while.





 A closer look.



The blue ruffly thing is the collar from a shirt that Jesse had when he was young.
The purple ribbon has a big button on it that can be tucked into the red plaid pocket.
The pink granny square is from the blanket mentioned in the "Granny Square Shoulder Bag" post. Made by Jade's Great Grandmother. It is sewn on only three sides so that it becomes a pocket.
There are three large buttons that can be pushed around inside the doily.
The brown floral patch also has buttons inside of it.
The purple embroidery beside it is a maze.

The apron strings are not fully attached, so they can be fiddled with. Also, the skirt of the apron is sewn in such a way that it cannot be smoothed out. An accident, but a fiddler none the less.

The orange ring slides back and forth on the ribbons.

The purple granny square type thing is only attached in the middle. The rest of the buttons can be undone.

The "picnic blanket" under the football is only attached at the edges of the football. And of course the football can be unzipped to reveal three buttons that are sewn down, one that is on a ribbon, and a little round "bag" of buttons.



The mouse is my favourite part of this blanket. I like it so much I might just make a whole blanket of them. The tail is a piece of t-shirt yarn, and is free to be fiddled with.

Last summer's flip flop got reused. The "sole" is corduroy.



Elias insisted on having his picture taken with the blanket.



A picture of Jade exploring her blanket. Stolen from Angie's blog.











The Granny Square Shoulder Bag

When Jesse was young his grandmother made a granny square blanket for each of the siblings in his family. Jesse's was damaged and had been sitting in our closet for a long time. I had been meaning to fix it for quite some time, but when I mentioned it to Jesse I found out that he wasn't actually very fond of the blanket. He felt like he should keep it because his grandma gave it to him, but he didn't actually like it much. So I decided to take it apart and reuse the squares. He liked this idea.

I tossed around a few ideas, and this is what I came up with.

 It is a Christmas gift for Angie. I think she'll appreciate the sentiment.



The other side.

   It could easily be lined, but it was nice this way too, so I left it. Angie's a great seamstress, so I know it won't be much trouble for her to line it if she wants to.

How Its Made.

As you can see from the pictures, you need 13 granny squares. One "+" (5squares) on each side, plus three squares that join the two sides. Connect the squares with single crochet(on the inside of the bag).

Border:

Round 1:

Attach yarn anywhere along the top of the bag.Ch(chain)1, Sc(single crochet) around, in the valleys skip the bottom space, at the peaks 2sc in the top space, join with slip stich.

Round 2:

Ch1, begin to sc around.

When coming up to a valley: Sc until there are two stiches before the bottom, crochet 2 together, twice, continue sc around.

When coming up to a peak: Sc until there is one stich before the top, 2sc in each of next 2 stiches, continue sc around.

Join.

Round 3:

Ch1, begin to sc around.

Valleys: same as round 2.

Peaks: Sc until there is one stich before the last increase(2 stiches before the top), 2sc in next stich, sc in each of next 2, 2sc in next stich, continue sc around.

Join.

Round 4:

Ch1, begin to sc around.

Valleys: same as round 2.

Peaks: Sc until there is one stich before the last increase(3 stiches before the top), 2sc in next stich, sc in each of next 4, 2sc in next stich, continue sc around.

Join and break yarn.

Handle(Make 2):

Ch5, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 3, *ch1, turn, sc4 across, repeat from * until desired legth.

Sew the handles to the flat spots at the tops of the peaks.

Sc arround entire border and handles for two more rounds. (There will be 3 separate areas to crochet arround. The outside of the left handle, between the handles, and the outside of the right handle.)



The closure is simply two wooden buttons conected by an old hair elastic.
 Just pop it through the hole at the bottom of the V on both sides.



Happy little accident.

Made for my nephew Robbie:

Free pattern here: http://bernat.com/pattern.php?PID=3999

This is one of my favourite patterns. Although I don't so much like connecting all the squares, it is well worth it for the end result.

I made this one for Elias while I was pregnant.

It is now a couple of years old, and has been well loved.

The blue one is made in the original pattern, with the suggested yarn. The orange/green one is made with Bernat Softee Baby, and just a different arrangement of the blocks. I liked the Softee Baby yarn better. It seemed a little sturdier and warmer, and less likely to stretch out of shape like the blue one has done. 

I actually didn't even notice that I'd arranged the blocks differently than the original pattern, until I started posting. I'm guessing that's why I ended up liking the orange/green one so much more than the blue one. A happy little accident. 

Knooking

I'm not exactly what you would call an "excitable" person, but this has done it folks......I'm excited.

Knooking is the latest craze in the yarn world and I'm dying to try it! I LOVE crochet, but my knitting skills are quite juvenile. Normally this is not a problem since pretty much anything that can be knit can also be crocheted. However, when it comes to socks and mittens crochet just doesn't cut it. Its nearly impossible to crochet socks or mittens that are not too stiff, and that's IF you can find a pattern. Of course you can go for a more lacy pattern, but then they won't be warm. SO, unfortunately for us crochet lovers, the only choice is to suck it up and knit them. This is problematic, since socks and mittens are some of the more difficult things you could choose to knit. So logically there are two options. 1. Start with easy projects and learn how to knit well. (Blech, not interested.) and 2. Attempt knitting socks, and just suffer through it until you figure it out. (I've tried and tried, and its just not going to happen.) And that's where I've been for quite some time now.

Well apparently I'm not the only one, and now there's a new option.

 Introducing the Knook:

http://www.leisurearts.com/how-to-knook

It is quite simply a crochet hook with a hole in the end that you thread a cord through. You then use the hook to knit. Yes, knit not crochet. You will use the hook to make actual knit and purl stitches, not look-alikes. This means that you can knook any pattern written for knitting. The link above has lots of instructional videos for all the different stitches.(They're also on youtube) So the only problem so far is that the only size of knooks currently available are the medium sizes, suitable for sport or worsted weight yarns. These size yarns can be used for socks, but I want to use a fingering weight wool for a warm, but light sock. Thankfully I'm not the first person with this problem either. 

Ronda at I'd Rather Be Knooking has solved this problem for me. 

http://knooking.blogspot.com/2011/03/sock-knooking-hook.html

I've called my local Michael's Store, and they have the Pony Bead Lacing in stock. So now I'm very impatiently waiting until my next scheduled trip to Brandon so I can get started. 

I also found a very helpful thread on Ravelry.

http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/knooking/1106986/1-25#reply_form

Oh, and I almost forgot to mention that with the knook, you can easily switch back and forth from knitting to crochet. My brain is running wild with ideas!

Update: Well, I made the knook with pony bead lacing, but I'm finding the lacing to be too "grippy". Its not a problem with the yarn, its just when you're working the row that the lacing seems to grip the hook. So it works, but not smoothly. I'm looking for another solution.