This is something I've been wanting to try for quite a while now.
The simplicity of this pattern is why I love it so much. It is simply two granny style hexagons that are folded and then joined down the back and along the top of the arms.
Add some edging and some buttons and you've got yourself a sweater.
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The Pattern
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This pattern can be made with any size yarn and matching hook. However, I used a sport weight(3) and a 5mm hook. To get the right size sweater I suggest using an old hoodie/sweater that is the approximate size you want to end up with. Lay out your two folded hexagons on top of the sweater as you go to determine whether or not you need more rows. Keeping in mind that the edging will add a little to the bottom and the sleeves.
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
ss = slip stitch
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet
Granny Style Hexagon (make 2)
Row 1: Start with a magic loop. In the loop ch3(counts as dc), 2dc, *ch1, 3dc* repeat from * to * 4 more times, ch1, pull the magic loop tight, join with ss to top of beginning chain. You should now have 6 3dc clusters and 6 ch1 spaces. Fasten off.
Row 2: Join a new colour into one of the ch1 spaces. In the ch1 space (ch3, 2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1), in each of the next 5 ch1 spaces (3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1). Join with ss to top of beginning chain. You should now have 12 3dc clusters and 12 ch1 spaces. Fasten off.
Row 3: Join a new colour into one of the ch1 spaces. In the ch1 space(ch3, 2dc, ch1). In the next ch1 space(3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1) to form a corner. In the next ch1 space(3dc, ch1) to continue pattern. Alternate between forming a corner and continuing the pattern in each on the next 9 ch1 spaces. Join with ss to top of beginning chain. You should now have 18 3dc clusters (two in each corner) and 18 ch1 spaces. Fasten off.
Row 4: Join new colour into one of the ch1 spaces along a flat edge(not a corner). In the ch1 space(ch3, 2dc, ch1). If the next space is a corner(3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1). If the next space is not a corner(3dc, ch1). Continue in this way until the last space. Join with ss to top of beginning chain. Fasten off.
Continue Row 4(adding 6 clusters each round) until desired size. Note that the edging will add a little length to the sleeves and body.
Fold the two hexagons into an L shape. Join the two shapes along what will be the back of the sweater using a ss. Then join along the top of each sleeve in the same way. I found that it looked nicest to join only the back loop of one side and the front loop of the other. Alternatively, you could sew the pieces together with yarn and a yarn needle. Now you should have a basic sweater shape.
Bottom Edging (ribbing)
Open up the sweater so that the bottom is flat. Join yarn at one end and work edging back and forth, row by row, just like a blanket.
Row 1: ch1, sc across entire row making sure to crochet 1sc in each ch1 space as well as each dc. Turn.
Note: I found that adding 1sc to each side of the back seam made for the flattest look.
Row 2: ch1, 1 hdc in each sc across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1, *1 fpdc in each of next 2 hdc, 1 bpdc in each of next 2 hdc* repeat from * to * across. Turn
Row 4: ch1, continue pattern across. (if the next stitch looks like a fpdc then do a fpdc, if it looks like a bpdc then do a bpdc.) Turn. Be careful not to loose a stitch at the end of each row.
Rows 5 & 6: Same as Row 4.
Fasten off.
Cuff Edging (ribbing)
The cuff edging is worked in the same way as the bottom edging, only that is is worked in the round. Meaning that you will join each round with a ss and continue working around in the same direction instead of turning at the end of the row. Also I suggest starting at the bottom of the sleeve so that the area where all of the rows are joined will be hidden. I chose to do one less round of edging on the sleeves than on the bottom.
Collar & Button Hole Edging
Row 1: Starting on the right side of the sweater, join yarn at the bottom of the Bottom Edging. ch1, and sc across in the same way as for the bottom edging. When you reach the outside corner of the collar 3sc in the corner stitch then continue to sc around the collar until you reach the next corner, 3sc in the corner, continue to sc until the very bottom of the bottom edging. Turn.
Row 2: ch1, sc across with a 3sc cluster at each corner. Turn.
Row 3: ch1, sc across with a 3sc cluster at each corner, stop after you've formed the second corner.
Now you can set out your buttons and choose where you want them to be. Use a contrasting colour of yarn or a small safety pin to mark the position of each button, but don't sew them on just yet.
Now continue Row 3: Continue to sc to the end of the row leaving a ch1 space(ch1, skip next stitch) directly across from where each button will go. Turn.
Note: Depending on the size of button you choose, you may have to leave a larger space for the button holes.
Row 4&5: Same as Row 2. Fasten off.
Using a needle and thread sew on the button, making sure to sew them onto the 3rd row of stitches and double checking along the way to make sure that the buttons are lining up with the button holes.
